Archive for the ‘Makeup Tips’ Category

Single and Double Asian Eyelids

Posted: February 1, 2011 in Makeup Tips

Hopefully this post answers / addresses most of the questions I’ve gotten regarding this topic! 

Today I’m going to talk about single and double eyelids and why I don’t think that it should be such a big deal.  This afternoon I was casually trolling around some Asian fan girl forums and looking at pre-debut K-Pop stars.  Obviously there is a lot of blah blah plastic surgery controversy etc etc and I’m going to have to say that I don’t really care (aside from the fact that it’s interesting to see the before and afters).  Looking at childhood photos of Asian celebrities, it seems pretty easy  to draw conclusions about how they have modified their looks over the years.  HOWEVER, looking at how my own eyes have made this natural progression as I’ve aged, I think not so easy!
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  1. When I was a baby and through my little kid years, I basically had typical Asian baby eyes.  They were cute!
  2. Everybody starts out pretty awesome but then all of a sudden things just get awkward.  I had one single eyelid and one double eyelid for a good few years.  I didn’t really care though because I was just enjoying my life and not being vain.  Plus, my great grandma had those kind of eyes and I thought that that was pretty neat!
  3. All of a sudden my other eye (which always had a tiny tiny suggestion of a fold) started to fall in.  They were then both double but still a little uneven.  I don’t know why this started happening, exactly.  Although I’m pretty sure the sleep deprivation started at this point!
  4. Now (I think through careless abuse… xD I am definitely not a shining makeup guru example) they have gotten increasingly creased and are actually looking more or less even!

So as you can see, my eyes (not to mention my nose and the rest of my face) have changed plenty without any plastic surgery, just natural aging.  All throughout the way I was more or less happy with how I looked.  Not to say that plastic surgery is a horrible thing.  It’s just not realistic for most people, which doesn’t matter since there’s really no need for most people to get it in the first place.

Getting to the point.  I DON’T REALLY THINK IT MATTERS WHETHER YOU HAVE A DOUBLE OR SINGLE LID, in makeup application or otherwise.  If I had both single eyelids, I would probably apply my eyeshadow in almost exactly the same way that I do now.  It really doesn’t make sense to me how there are tutorials for “single eyelids” and “double eyelids.”  Sure double eyelids have a fold, but they’re still Asian looking!  Neither has the highly defined Caucasian  socket where the eyelid molds to the eyeball.  All my fold does is push my eye fat out more so my crease is even harder to find.

Have you ever wondered why I always take my eyeshadow pictures at a funky low angle where you can see up my nostrils in the uncropped picture?  It’s so that I can get rid of my fold in the pictures!  I always like these pictures better and I sometimes wish that they were how my eyes showed up in real life!  In some ways double eyelids can be really annoying when applying makeup.  For example, It ALWAYS HIDES MY F$%#ing BLENDING!  How maddening!

As you can see, the dollar bill folded over looks like a mushroom, not like George.  When my eyes fold, it looks like a hard edged color separation, not a beautifully blended eye shadow lid.  Good example, right?!

So now I figured out that I have to take my eyeshadow even higher just for it to show up blended (picture example above).  I essentially apply my makeup to defy my crease since otherwise  all of the eyeshadow is engulfed in it!  A lot of people have to do this extra compensation in order to defeat their hooded eyes and that’s fine!  Another problem I have is that I always have to worry about drawing my eyeliner as to make sure that it doesn’t overlap into my fold.  I also can’t make super steep eyeliner wings because they always run into my fold at the ends.  Now I’m not just trying to use this post to complain about my earth-shattering problems.  What I’m trying to say is that all eye shapes have their ups and downs, and it’s not a big deal.

My message to everybody is to not feel limited by your eye shape.  It’s intimidating to span out into that vast and flat plane that is the Asian eye lid, but you should really try it.  It makes no sense for Asians to be complaining about their lack of lid space when it’s there, out in the open.  Of course you have to do some adjusting so you don’t look like you work the streets at night …but who doesn’t?  (have to adjust their makeup, I mean… )  Actually, since I’ve gotten used it it, I really enjoy having a big flat space to work with.

Lastly, the most basic tips for makeup application on all Asian eyes:
1. Always blend your eye shadow beyond the fold.  Basically, make it visible.  Keep it soft.
2. Always work a gradient from dark to light vertically and horizontally, as shown in the diagram below.

Both are just really good rules of thumb to start out with if you’ve never worked with eyeshadow before.  I wish I had known these tips earlier and didn’t just have to learn from experimentation but that’s just how it goes.

So hopefully this instructional rant thing helped someone.  Questions down below!

As far as my experience has gone, I would say that mastery of eyeliner is the most important skill you will ever develop, especially if you have Asian eyes.  It’s worth it to really try to perfect your skills because eyeliner can give your makeup a unique edge that nothing else really can.  I have always gotten a lot of questions about how I to use eyeliner effectively, so in this post I hope to explain everything I know.  Be warned, I’m going to be making generalizations.  I know that not everybody’s eye shape and skin is the same.  Try as I might, I can’t make any almighty rules that are going to work for everybody (WAHH.)  We good?

First of all, eyeliner has TWO MAIN FUNCTIONS:

1.  It ties down your eyeshadow. Let’s say you have just magnificently crayon-colored a page in your favorite coloring book.  Now imagine what it would look like if all of a sudden all of your guidelines disappeared.  The picture becomes unclear and your colors no longer stand out as sharply.  Without eyeliner, most looks will appear fuzzy, unprofessional, clownish, and unfinished (and yes, coloring books are very professional XD)  You will find that you can pull off tons of colors and color combinations you wouldn’t have previously considered as long as you lock it in with a solid amount of black in the form of mascara, lashes, and eyeliner.  It grounds both dramatic and neutral looks.

2. Eyeliner not only defines, but manipulates your eye shape.  You shouldn’t see it as one or the other – however from what I’ve seen, it’s easiest for people to forget the second.  Forgetting is the only barrier that prevents you from really branching out and becoming creative with eyeliner.  The reason why you would want to manipulate or distort your eye shape is to either balance or exaggerate your facial characteristics.  For example, wide set eyes can be made to appear closer together, or the distance can be exaggerated for drama.  Liner shape and extension can elongate, slant, or round your eye shape, giving you more control over how you look (sexy, evil, innocent, creepy, etc…) It’s definitely worth playing around with.

This eyeliner makes me look lethargic and awesome. OR MAYBE THAT'S BECAUSE I'M SITTING IN A TREE

So… how do I beginz “playing around with it”?? HM!?

There are three variables that you should be taking into account when you draw your eyeliner.  They all deal with the outer half of your eye, as that is the space where you have the highest range of control (while adhering to the general beauty standards of today o_0).

1. TAKE OFF POINT – Decide this first.  This is where your line first begins to deviate from your eye shape and “take off” (woo!)

2. ANGLE – Decide what angle you want the end of your eyeliner to come down at.

3. LENGTH – Decide how far up this angle line your want to extend your line.

Wait Ladies. One more thing -

IMPORTANT: After you have determined where your upper
line will be placed, you have yet MORE CHOICES!!  They include:

  • How convex or concave your wing will be.  What would be seen as a typical “wing” is always straight edged or convex.
  • How thick or thin your line is.  Thin at the inner getting thicker?  The same thickness the whole way through?
  • How much and what color you would like to fill in beneath it.. this is like coloring in a coloring book!
  • Whether or not to connect it to your lower lashline eyeliner.  And how (rounded, sharp and square, thick, thin, etc.)
  • Embellishments (such as dots, hearts, stars, lines, more wings to top and/or bottom, lining around your inner corner)

EMBELLISHMENTS!

If you have any questions feel free to write them in the comments and I will try my best to answer them :)  Thank you for reading and good luck getting more creative and clean with your eyeliner skillzz!

Fully Rimmed Eyeliner

Posted: July 24, 2010 in Makeup Tips, Tutorials

The first time I tried rimming my entire eye with black eyeliner was… pathetic.  After seeing Dara’s makeup in 2NE1’s Fire mv, let’s just say I got a little excited.  So, upon second attempt, I’ve come up with a more thoughtful method for pulling this thing off.  If you’re a beginner and have never attempted something like this, read on!

STEP ONE (yellow) – So, starting out, you’re gonna want to line your waterline using a cream or pencil eyeliner.  If you’re feeing ambitious you can tightline all the way around.  As you can see, I have not.

STEP TWO (pink) –  Next, make a sharp, nearly vertical line up from the corner of your eye for the basis of your wing.  With my eyes I usually make my wing quite steep, but I recommend experimenting with your eye shape if you’re inexperienced with winging your eyeliner.  After laying down this line, you’re gonna want to bridge it across into your basic eyeliner.  I usually use a cream eyeliner for this step.

STEP THREE (turquoise) –  So for the last part I take my Kat Von D tattoo eyeliner because the finishing touches require an eyeliner that is precise and easy to control.  In this last step I’m just fleshing out some of the shapes that I’ve created on the outer and inner corners.  It always helps to have a q-tip on hand for cleanup.